Labels and certifications in sustainable fashion: Which ones to trust?

Faced with the environmental and social impacts of the textile industry, sustainable fashion has become a major issue. Many brands claim to be "ethical," but how can we distinguish sincere commitments from greenwashing? Transparency is essential, and labels are a key tool for identifying truly eco-responsible clothing.

In this article, we review the most reliable eco-friendly fashion labels, their criteria, and any limitations they may have. We'll also look at how to verify their authenticity and how to avoid opportunistic labels.

If you can't be bothered to read everything:

What is an eco-responsible fashion label?

A label is a certification awarded by an independent body to guarantee that a product meets certain environmental, social, or health standards. In the textile industry, these labels cover several aspects:

• Raw materials : organic cotton, recycled wool, sustainable fibers, etc.
• Production process : reduction of CO2 emissions, limitation of toxic chemicals, saving water, etc.
• Working conditions : fair wages, prohibition of forced labor, respect for workers' rights.

These certifications allow consumers to make informed choices and encourage more responsible practices.

Sustainable fashion labels to know

With the rise of ethical fashion, several labels have established themselves as benchmarks. Here are the most recognized:

1. GRS (Global Recycled Standard)

• Ensures that at least 50% of the materials used come from recycling.
  
• Guarantees the traceability of materials and prohibits the use of harmful chemicals.
  
• Demands ethical work practices.

2. GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)

• Certified organic materials.
• Ban on toxic chemicals.
• Compliance with social standards for workers.

3. Fairtrade

• Ensures a fair income for producers.
• Decent working conditions.
• Encouragement of sustainable development.

4. OEKO-TEX Standard 100

• Guarantee that textiles do not contain harmful substances.
• Strict control of each component of the garment.

5. PETA Approved Vegan

• Certifies that no animal material is used.
• Ideal for vegan and animal welfare-conscious consumers.

6. B Corp

• Recognition of ethical business management.
• Taking into account the overall environmental and social impact.

7. WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production)

• Guarantees ethical working conditions.
• Control of environmental and social impacts in textile production.

8. Fair Wear Foundation

• Ensures fair working conditions in the textile industry.
• Based on independent factory audits.

9. Bluesign

• Reducing the environmental impact of textiles.
• Use of sustainable and non-toxic materials.

10. Soil Association Organic

• Certifies the absence of hazardous chemicals.
• Promoter of sustainable organic agriculture.

11. Master of Linen

• Certifies 100% European linen, from cultivation to processing
• Guarantees local, traceable and environmentally friendly production.

This list is not exhaustive, but it provides a solid basis for identifying truly sustainable clothing.
We encourage you to find more information about each label on their respective websites. You can find the link to each label in the article's sources.

Are Sustainable Fashion Labels Reliable?

While labels help identify responsible products, they are not infallible. Here are some points to watch out for:

1. Beware of self-declaring labels

Some labels are created by the brands themselves, without independent oversight. It's essential to prioritize certifications verified by third-party organizations.

2. Difference between third-party labels and certifications

A recognized label is based on external audits and precise standards, while a simple brand statement can amount to greenwashing.

3. The limits of labels

Even the most serious labels do not guarantee perfect ethics. For example:

• Some certificates concern only one aspect (e.g. absence of chemicals) but do not guarantee fair working conditions.
• A product can be labeled, but not the entire brand.

How to check the reliability of a sustainable fashion label?

To ensure the credibility of a certification, here are some methods:

1. Consult the official websites of the Labels

Serious labels detail their criteria and publish the list of certified brands. Examples:

• GOTS
• GRS
• Fairtrade
  
• OEKO-TEX

2. Use verification apps and tools

• Good On You : Evaluates the ethics of brands.
• Clear Fashion : analyzes the impact of clothing.
• The Good Goods : media and tool for deciphering sustainable fashion.

3. Rely on consumer associations

Some NGOs and collectives carry out surveys to identify the most reliable labels and denounce those who practice greenwashing. (e.g.: AchACT )

Controversial fashion labels

• Not all labels are equal, and some are regularly criticized for their lack of transparency or overly lax criteria. For example:

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)

• Created in 2005 to promote more sustainable cotton cultivation.
• Criticized for the lack of a minimum wage requirement for workers.
• Lack of transparency denounced by certain NGOs.

Case of opportunistic brands

Some brands obtain a label for part of their collection, but do not apply it to all of their products. For example:

• H&M : Fairtrade certified on some products, but criticized for its overall unsustainable production model.
• Zara : launched "eco-responsible" collections without a clear commitment across its entire production chain.

Before buying, it is therefore important to check whether the brand adopts a global approach or whether it is content with an "alibi" label.

Conclusion

Sustainable fashion labels and certifications are a valuable tool for guiding consumers toward more responsible choices. However, it is essential to remain vigilant against self-proclaimed labels and greenwashing practices.

✔ Choose recognized and independent labels (GOTS, Fairtrade, OEKO-TEX, Fair Wear Foundation, etc.).
✔ Check certifications on official websites and through specialized applications.
✔ Be wary of labels created by the brands themselves or with overly vague criteria.

By showing discernment, we can all contribute to a more environmentally friendly and human rights-friendly fashion and change the norm!

At Lucid, all our recycled materials are GRS certified, and the Oeko-Tex 100 label applies to all our materials. Our linen is also Master of Linen certified. This allows us to ensure the traceability of our materials and that they do not contain toxic substances.

Sources

• Textile Exchange. (nd). Global Recycled Standard (GRS) . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://textileexchange.org/standards/global-recycled-standard
• Global Organic Textile Standard. (nd). The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://global-standard.org
• Fairtrade International. (nd). Fairtrade: Production Conditions and Labels . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://www.fairtrade.net
• OEKO-TEX. (nd). STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® . Accessed February 4, 2025, at https://www.oeko-tex.com
• PETA. (nd). What is the "PETA-Approved Vegan" label? Accessed February 4, 2025, at https://www.peta.org
• B Lab. (nd). B Corp Certification . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://www.bcorporation.net
• WRAP. (nd). What is WRAP certification? Accessed February 4, 2025, at https://wrapcompliance.org
• Fair Wear Foundation. (nd). Fair Wear: Improving Working Conditions in the Textile Industry . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://www.fairwear.org
• Bluesign. (nd). Bluesign® - The Blue Way . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://www.bluesign.com
• Soil Association. (nd). Organic Textiles Certification . Retrieved February 4, 2025, from https://www.soilassociation.org
• SOMO. (2019). Certified Uncertainty: A critical assessment of the Better Cotton Initiative . SOMO Research.
• WeDressFair. (nd). Labels, certifications, labeling: a guide to responsible fashion . Retrieved from https://www.wedressfair.fr/blog/labels-certifications-etiquetages-guide-pour-une-mode-responsable

Article written by Emma Dumont and Savinien Domken.