Coton bio : Avantages, limites et impact environnemental complet

Organic Cotton: Benefits, Limitations, and Complete Environmental Impact

Organic cotton has become a staple in ethical brand narratives. But beyond the marketing slogans, what's its real value? Less polluting, healthier, fairer... or simply another trend to decipher? While we can grant it certain benefits, we at Lucid have long tended to avoid using it. We explain why in this article, so if you want to know what's behind this increasingly popular material without falling into greenwashing, you've come to the right place.

If you can't be bothered to read

🌱 Organic cotton is grown without GMOs or chemical pesticides, with natural fertilizers.
💧 It generally uses less water than conventional cotton, but this is not always true depending on the region.
🏭 It reduces the exposure of workers and consumers to toxic substances.
🔍 The GOTS or OCS labels are the best markers for recognizing it.
⚖️ Compared to recycled cotton, organic cotton has ecological advantages but consumes more resources.

What is organic cotton and how does it differ from conventional cotton?

Organic cotton is cotton grown according to the principles of organic farming. It is produced without GMOs, chemical pesticides, or synthetic fertilizers . Instead, farmers use natural fertilizers like compost and rely on crop rotation and biodiversity to preserve soil fertility. Unlike conventional cotton, organic cotton farming avoids toxic substances as much as possible and limits soil and water pollution.

Conventional cotton , on the other hand, is one of the most polluting crops on the planet. Although it only represents about 2.5% of the world's agricultural land , it accounts for 16 to 25% of all insecticides used worldwide and about 10% of pesticides . These chemicals contaminate groundwater, destroy local biodiversity and impoverish soils. Their intensive use also has serious effects on the health of producers and their families: respiratory diseases, cancers, skin disorders and even neurological disorders are commonly reported in areas of intensive cultivation.

Conventional cotton is extremely water-intensive. It is often grown in arid regions (such as Gujarat in India, Uzbekistan, or California), requiring massive irrigation. According to the Water Footprint Network, it takes on average around 10,000 liters of water to produce 1 kg of conventional cotton , or 2,500 liters of water for a simple t-shirt . This overconsumption has major ecological consequences. The most striking example is the dramatic drying up of the Aral Sea in Central Asia, largely caused by the massive irrigation of cotton fields.

Finally, conventional cotton is often produced under very difficult working conditions . Many agricultural workers are exposed to toxic products without protection. In some parts of the world, such as Uzbekistan or Turkmenistan, cases of forced labor and child labor have been widely documented. Wages are often very low, social protections almost non-existent, and working conditions are appalling , to keep prices low in the global textile chain.

cotton cultivation

What are the main environmental benefits of growing organic cotton?

Organic cotton farming significantly reduces environmental impacts. First, it limits the use of toxic chemicals that pollute soil, groundwater, and air . Second, it promotes biodiversity by preserving pollinating insects and soil microbial life. As a bonus, by excluding GMOs, it allows farmers to maintain their seed autonomy. Organic cotton farming also relies on agroecological practices: composting, crop rotation, green manures , etc. Practices that restore soils instead of depleting them. In the long term, this makes the crop more resilient to climate change .

What are the disadvantages of organic cotton?

It's not all rosy either. Organic cotton has a lower yield per hectare than conventional cotton (around 20 to 30% less according to studies), which means that more land is needed to produce the same amount . This can be problematic on a large scale. Moreover, contrary to popular belief, it doesn't necessarily grow in regions with a lot of rainfall : many organic crops also rely on irrigation , particularly in India or Turkey. And because there are fewer chemical inputs to stimulate growth and yield, more water and more labor are often needed for weeding, disease monitoring, etc., which can make production more expensive.

What is the water consumption of organic cotton?

This is one of the most heated debates surrounding organic cotton. It's often said that it uses less water than conventional cotton, and this is true under certain conditions. Organic soils contain more organic matter, which allows them to retain moisture better . In addition, the absence of toxic chemicals reduces the need for water for washing and irrigation. But beware: not all studies agree on a drastic reduction. The water consumption of organic cotton, which has a lower yield, can be equal or even higher in areas where rainfall is low and irrigation is necessary . The local context therefore plays a major role.

Comparison: water consumption according to cotton types (per t-shirt)

Type of cotton Average water consumption Details
Conventional cotton Approximately 2,500 L Mainly due to irrigation in arid areas
Organic cotton From 1,000 to 2,500 L Highly dependent on agricultural practices and local climate
Recycled cotton About 30 to 100 L Made from used textiles or industrial scraps, very low impact

How to recognize an organic cotton product?

It's not always obvious to the naked eye, especially in a store or on a website. These are the labels that guarantee the organic origin of the cotton used. You can also check traceability on product sheets or ask the brand for information. Certain clues can be red flags, such as a price that's too low to be true. When in doubt, it's best to rely on internationally recognized certifications (see below).

What are the reliable certification labels for organic cotton?

The most widely recognized is the GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) label . It certifies not only that the cotton is organic (at least 95% organic fibers to be labeled "organic"), but also that the entire manufacturing process meets environmental and social criteria : dyes without heavy metals, decent wages, a ban on child labor, etc.

GOTS organic cotton certification

Other serious labels:

  • OCS (Organic Content Standard) : Certifies the percentage of organic fibers in a product (from 5%), but does not control the processing stages.
  • Fairtrade – Max Havelaar : Does not always guarantee organic, but ensures fair production conditions .

If you want to know more: here is an article on sustainable fashion certifications .

What impacts on the health of workers and consumers does organic cotton aim to reduce?

Conventional cotton is one of the most heavily sprayed crops in the world. About 16% of all insecticides used in global agriculture are used on cotton, but only 2.5% of the world's agricultural land. As a result, many agricultural workers are exposed to toxic substances, sometimes without protection . These include respiratory problems, cancers, neurological disorders , and more. Organic cotton eliminates this exposure by eliminating chemical pesticides.

On the consumer side, organic textiles are often treated with non-toxic dyes , without heavy metals or carcinogenic substances, which is particularly important for clothing worn next to the skin (underwear, children's clothing, etc.).

organic cotton plowing

What is better: organic cotton or recycled cotton?

Recycled cotton , which you can find the full article on, is another alternative to conventional cotton. From a purely ecological perspective, recycled cotton generally has a better track record than organic cotton : it uses much less water , does not require new crops, and reduces pressure on agricultural land.

But it also has its limitations. Recycled cotton is less durable , especially if it comes from post-consumer textiles. Therefore, when used in clothing, it must be mixed with other fibers (organic cotton, recycled polyester, etc.) , which can make it more difficult to recycle again at the end of its life.

Organic cotton has the advantage of being 100% natural and compostable , with good comfort and simpler traceability. But it does not specifically solve, or even worsens, one of the major problems of cotton : its water consumption .

At Lucid, we generally favor recycled polyester over organic cotton to complement the recycled cotton in our blend for our recycled clothing . This allows us to revalue even more waste rather than producing raw material , and therefore have a material with an extremely low ecological footprint during production and requiring 99% less water than organic cotton .

Conclusion: a material to be favored but in a responsible way

Organic cotton isn't perfect, but it's clearly a step forward compared to conventional cotton in a textile industry that has long turned a blind eye to its environmental and social impacts. However, we must ensure how it's produced because it doesn't always solve the major problems associated with cotton farming. As a consumer, learning about labels, supporting responsible brands, and promoting responsible consumption (less but better) remains the best way to make a difference.

Sources

  • Khmara, Y., Hafeez, M., & Sahajwalla, V. (2022). The environmental price of fast fashion . Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 3(9), 557–567. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-022-00333-3
  • Textile Exchange. (2023). Organic Cotton Market Report 2023 .
  • PANUK. (2020). Pesticide use in cotton farming: a global overview .
  • WWF. (2013). The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt .
  • WRAP UK. (2021). Textiles 2030: Technical Roadmap .
Savinien Domken

Savinien Domken

Co-founder of Lucid Collective

After writing a thesis on sustainable fashion, Savinien turned his attention to concrete alternatives to fast fashion. Having been involved in responsible fashion for over five years, he pays particular attention to materials with low environmental impact. Through his articles, he shares his experience and beliefs for more ethical fashion consumption.

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