From the very beginning of Lucid, we set ourselves the ambitious and, frankly, somewhat naive goal of creating a 100% Belgian garment, from the plant to the finished product. We quickly realized that where things were going wrong was in the choice of textiles.
Oh yes, Belgian cotton is not coming any time soon (but given the acceleration of climate change, what a joy it would be to see it growing along the E411, right?).
Two materials offer us this possibility: hemp and linen . While we are still testing the development of the first (this rogue still has some trouble with the law), we have studied the second in depth because it is simply incredible: sustainable, local, strong, breathable, biodegradable, etc.
In short, we're sharing with you everything we learned about linen during the two years it took to successfully develop our shirt 👇
If you can't be bothered to read everything:
- 🌱Linen is a natural fiber that has been used for thousands of years for its textile qualities.
- 🔨Flax cultivation is mostly carried out in our countries but its processing is mainly done in Asia, a hindrance to its local character.
- ⭐Resistant, thermoregulating, absorbent, and hypoallergenic, linen is a durable and pleasant fiber to wear, in summer as in winter.
- 🌍Its cultivation respects the environment and enriches the soil, with little ecological impact. Flax is also zero-waste; everything is used.
- 💸Linen represents less than 1% of the fibers used because we have lost know-how and production takes a long time, which makes it more expensive.
- ⏳It softens and becomes more beautiful over time, gaining softness and a natural patina.
- ✅ The Masters of Linen label ensures that certified linen has not left Europe, from cultivation to processing.
What is linen?
Linen is a natural fiber derived from the Linum usitatissimum plant (also called that in the Lucid offices, don't worry). Used for thousands of years, it is known for its strength and breathable properties .
Very popular today for its ecological qualities, it is mainly cultivated in our regions (France, Belgium, Netherlands), ideal thanks to their humid and temperate climate.
And in order to better understand what linen really is and especially to have access to quality/local linen, we have joined forces with THE Belgian star in the field: Libeco (and its boss Raymond Libeert)

How is linen fabric made?
According to R (Raymond is our safe guy now), linen fabric is made in the following way:
After harvesting, the flax stalks are left on the ground for a natural process called retting , where microorganisms break down the plant's husk to release the fibers. These fibers are then sorted and spun into yarn, then textile, and finally dyed.
Historically speaking, everything was made in Belgium/France . Today, the situation is rather alarming: 75-85% of the world's linen production is carried out between Caen and Amsterdam (via Belgium) but more than 80% of this production is exported to Asia to be transformed into clothing which will then be shipped back to Europe.
We are walking on our heads.
Raymond also tells us that it is mainly the disappearance of local flax spinning mills (which turn the plant into thread) in favor of Asian spinning mills and the resulting loss of know-how that is slowing down complete relocation. The trend is slowly reversing, with current opportunities for spinning in Poland, Lithuania, or Italy.
You know us, we've obviously made sure that our linen only passes through these subsidiaries. To ensure this, our linen is Masters of Linen certified , guaranteeing that it has never left Europe.

What are the qualities of linen?
So there, linen is full of qualities:
- Resistant : Its fiber is 30% more robust than cotton.
- Hypoallergenic : It is gentle on sensitive skin.
- Thermoregulating : Cool and breathable in summer, keeps you warm in winter.
- Absorbent : absorbs up to 35% of its weight in water and diffuses moisture (bye bye sweat stains)
- Biodegradable : Completely natural, it degrades perfectly at the end of its life.
- Zero waste : The entire plant is used during its processing
You got it right, we couldn't help but choose it for our shirt.
Is linen eco-friendly?
To be honest, we initially focused on hemp, given the incredible environmental qualities it's touted in the industry. But that wasn't taking into account what we discovered about flax.
Its cultivation requires VERY little water (115 liters for 1 kg of finished flax compared to 10,000 liters for cotton!) because flax only needs rainwater during growth. The natural rainfall in our regions is sufficient.
It is a robust plant that requires few chemical inputs (fertilizers, phytosanitary products). In addition, it nourishes and enriches the soil , which is why flax is often used as a rotation crop.
The mechanical processing of flax consumes little energy and if we can process it locally, we reduce the impact of transport . All this makes it a serious candidate for the election of the most ecological fiber.

Why is linen expensive?
Because Raymond and Lucid want to line their pockets, obviously.
More seriously, linen costs more due to several factors :
- The transformation is long and the know-how is somewhat forgotten , which makes production more complex.
- Labor in Europe , where flax is mostly grown, is more expensive than that of “globalized” cotton.
- For linen going through an Asian spinning mill, there are high transport costs .
- Global production of linen is much lower than that of other natural fibers such as cotton, so there are fewer economies of scale.
By increasingly prioritizing materials like local linen (not even 1% of current global fiber production), we will boost demand, which will gradually make it cheaper .
And that's why we're starting to work right now at Lucid to offer you shirts made from local linen.
Why wear linen?
Here's a question. Because it's awesome, finally.
Wearing linen means choosing comfort and durability . In summer, it keeps you cool thanks to its thermoregulating properties, while remaining warm enough to be worn in mid-season.
Hypoallergenic and antibacterial , it is ideal for those with sensitive skin or who want a breathable garment.
Plus, it softens over time , guaranteeing you lasting comfort.
Finally, from a more personal point of view, we find that it gives an authentic side to the garment and is easy to accommodate with the rest of your wardrobe.
How does linen age?
Just like George Clooney, linen gets better with age .
Each wash makes it softer and more comfortable to wear , and its fiber naturally develops a patina under the effect of the sun and washing . This is what makes each linen garment unique and even more beautiful over the years.
At Lucid, we've even decided to offer a lifetime guarantee on our linen shirts . So you can decide who's aged best: you or your shirt.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of linen?
Well, we'll summarize everything here so you can talk about it at the family meal next week:
Benefits | Disadvantages |
Eco-responsible : no water irrigation, few pesticides and fertilizers, good for the soil, etc. | Creases easily : Although this depends on the manufacturing processes used |
Zero waste : All parts of the plant are recycled (textile fibers, fodder, compost). |
Spinning in Asia : The majority of linen is spun in Asia, which increases its carbon footprint and reduces its local aspect |
Local production : Mainly grown in Europe, creates jobs, … | High costs : Production requires specific know-how, which makes it more expensive. |
Built to last : Stronger than average and ages well. | |
Comfortable : hypoallergenic, fluid, absorbent, etc. |
To overcome this, at Lucid we decided to choose a thick linen that is less creasable, spun in Europe and woven in Belgium to keep it local and at a cost that remains affordable for as many people as possible.
Conclusion on linen
In our quest for 100% Belgian clothing, linen stood out as a common-sense solution that was easier to relocate.
This is why it is a pleasure to be able to offer our community a linen shirt for men and women , designed with respect for the environment and with local know-how.
For the making of our shirts, linen brilliantly replaces cotton, beating it on issues of environmental impact, strength, comfort and above all relocation .
While a large majority of flax is grown in our countries, an equally large majority is processed in Asia, which raises questions about the impact of transport, traceability and respect for workers' social rights.
By circumventing this phenomenon by surrounding ourselves with the best possible local partners, we managed to make a great linen shirt that, in our humble opinion, has the potential to change the textile industry.
Sources:
- Flax-Linen-Hemp Alliance. (2024). Environmental Responsibility of European Flax. Flax-Linen-Hemp Alliance. https://allianceflaxlinenhemp.eu/fr/responsabilite-environnemental-flax-europeen
- Iznowgood. (2021). Everything you need to know about linen, the most eco-friendly material. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yXH2yWjoUY&t=29s&ab_channel=Iznowgood
- The Good Goods. (2024). Linen. The Good Goods. https://www.thegoodgoods.fr/matieres/lin/
- Green. (2022, March 24). Organic linen: the local and eco-friendly alternative to cotton is re-establishing a French sector. Vert.eco. https://vert.eco/articles/le-lin-bio-alternative-locale-et-ecolo-au-coton-se-retisse-une-filiere-francaise
- WeDressFair. (2024). Linen: an eco-responsible material?. WeDressFair. https://www.wedressfair.fr/matieres/lin
- Impossible. (2024). Impossible. Impossible. https://www.linpossible.fr/
- ADEME. (2012). Comparative life cycle analysis of textile fibers. Agency for Ecological Transition. https://librairie.ademe.fr/changement-climatique/1395-analyse-du-cycle-de-vie-comparee-de-fibres-textiles.html
- Masters of Linen. (2024). Linen, a sustainable and European fiber. Masters of Linen. https://www.mastersoflinen.com