At Lucid, it all started with a scientific study proving that recycled materials can truly make a difference. But since the launch of our recycled cotton-polyester T-shirts and sweatshirts, no other textiles that upcycle waste have made it into our wardrobe.
It was while looking for the coolest material to make warm hats and sweaters that we discovered recycled wool . We were like kids on Christmas morning.
As efficient as virgin wool, self-sufficient, recyclable several times and with a 98% reduced environmental impact , it well deserves its title of “boss of circular fashion” (unofficial title but we allow ourselves).
In short, here we share with you everything we learned about recycled wool and how it will keep you warm while changing the game 👇
If you can't be bothered to read everything:
- 🌍 Produced from old clothes or scraps, without breeding or dyeing, therefore much more sustainable than virgin wool
- ♻️ Collected, sorted, defibrated, then transformed into threads, it requires no additional water or chemicals
- 🌱 Reduced CO2 emissions and saved 99% of water
- ✔️ Resistant, insulating and soft, comparable to new wool (or even more resistant and comfortable!)
- 🔄 Recyclable up to 6x, without losing its qualities, and often without recoloring necessary
- 💡 Per puts a relocation of textile production in Europe and better waste management, in a circular economy
What is recycled wool?
Recycled wool is simply wool from worn-out clothing or production scraps , transformed for a new use. It is therefore possible to give new life to that old Christmas sweater you are a little ashamed of and which is lying around in the depths of your wardrobe.
In short, this means that unlike virgin wool, there is no need to raise sheep, shear them, dye the wool, etc. This results in a very interesting ecological footprint (or sheep in this case) and above all a relocation of textile production in our countries (we'll tell you all about that below).
How is wool recycled?
Wool recycling is a mechanical process that transforms used wool textiles (“post-consumer”) or production scraps (“pre-consumer”) into fibers ready to be spun again.
As usual at Lucid, we decided to partner with experts: Les Filatures du Parc , a French company founded in 1975 and based in Brassac (France) which has developed its own recycling technology by choosing to defiber rather than grind textiles.
Here are the main steps in their wool recycling:
-
Collection and sorting
Wool textiles are collected and then manually sorted by color and composition. All non-textile elements (buttons, zippers, labels) are removed. -
Defibering
Thanks to a patented pre-stripping and defibering process, the wool is transformed into fibers without being crushed, which allows up to 95% of the original fiber length to be preserved . This innovation guarantees a robust and high-quality material. -
Spinning
Once defibrated, the fibers are twisted on spinning lines to become yarns, with different counts (thicknesses). These yarns do not require additional dyeing or chemical treatment, thanks to the color sorting carried out upstream.
The yarns produced by Les Filatures du Parc are GRS (Global Recycle Standard) certified , guaranteeing the traceability of recycled materials and compliance with sustainable practices.
What is the environmental impact of recycled wool?
The production process for recycled wool is significantly less impactful than that of virgin wool. Here are some key points:
- No animal farming : Unlike virgin wool, which comes from sheep raised, often in Australia or China, recycled wool uses garments collected in Europe, eliminating the impacts of animal farming, such as methane emissions and soil pollution, as well as transportation. The sheep are also left alone.
- Resource Reduction : Recycled wool production uses 99% less water and saves 96% energy compared to new wool production (including livestock farming).
- Zero dyeing : The threads are already colored thanks to the initial sorting, avoiding the use of polluting dyes.
- Less textile waste : By recycling used clothing, this process helps reduce the quantity of textiles thrown away and incinerated each year.
It's still so nice to think that a sweater at the end of its life can be completely remade into a new sweater, all thanks to a circular economy logic (from thread to thread) . According to Fabrice from Filature du Parc, this would reduce the environmental impact of production by 98%.
Is recycled wool good quality?
Thanks to innovations in defibering processes, recycled wool fibers retain their length and are therefore just as high quality as virgin wool . And that's what's crazy: the yarns are now known to score well in tests for breaking strength, elongation, abrasion, pilling, etc.
Among other things, recycled wool is great because
- Comfortable and flexible
- Dries quickly
- Absorbs moisture well (practical in winter)
- Retains heat
- Durable and ready to go with you everywhere
- Hypoallergenic (shout out for all our atopic skin)
According to our experts at Filature du Parc, recycled wool fibers are even generally more resistant than virgin wool fibers. The logic? There was a natural selection process before recycling , and only the fibers that survived their first life remain.
How many times can wool be recycled?
Wool can be recycled many times while still retaining its properties . It is estimated that it can be recycled at least 6 times to recreate garments that perform just as well. Imagine keeping a wool sweater for a good fifteen years, that's fibers that could last longer than Kurt Cobain, Amy Winehouse, and Jimmy Hendrix combined.
However, after several cycles and depending on the recycling methods, the fibers can become too short. In these cases, it will be necessary to turn to another use less demanding in terms of strength (such as making insulation) , or to mix this recycled wool with other materials (such as cotton or polyester) to guarantee the durability of the yarn.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of recycled wool?
Recycled wool offers the same functional benefits as virgin wool, plus significant environmental and ethical advantages. However, the selection of fibers used has a significant impact:
| Benefits | Disadvantages |
|
Ecological : 99% less water, 96% less energy and zero dyeing required. |
Limited fiber durability : Although they retain 95% of their length, after several recycling cycles, the fibers can become too short, reducing their potential for garments requiring high strength. |
|
Ethics : No (intensive) breeding, nor animal suffering (mulesing). |
Complex and costly process : Sorting, pre-stripping and defibering require advanced technology, resulting in higher initial costs for manufacturers. |
| Self-sufficient : Recycled wool can be used on its own thanks to the preservation of its fiber length. This guarantees 100% recycled wool garments, without compromising on performance. | Composition variability : The final yarn quality may vary depending on the garments collected, requiring careful selection and adjustments to ensure consistent quality. |
|
Performance : Excellent thermoregulation, antibacterial, strong, soft and flexible . |
|
| Locally sourced : Used clothing comes from European circuits, avoiding the impact of transport. |
To overcome this, at Lucid we have partnered with experts who have been perfecting their logistics and production since 1975 and who select wool better than anyone.
Conclusion on recycled wool
Personally, we're fans. Recycled wool represents a sustainable and innovative solution for circular fashion. It enhances existing resources, minimizes waste, reduces the environmental impacts of animal farming, and offers performance equal to (or even superior, according to Fabrice!) that of virgin wool. We love it as much because it's less disruptive to the planet as because it's just so comfortable!
We made our CIRCL hat from this material, which, in our humble opinion, has the potential to change the textile industry.
Sources:
- The Spinning Mills of the Park. (2024). Internal documents
- The Mechanics of the Sweater. (2024). The Spinning Mills of the Park. Retrieved from https://www.lamecaniquedupull.com/notre-mecanique/les-filatures-du-parc/
- Ubac. (2024). Everything you need to know about recycled wool. Retrieved from https://ubac-store.com/blog/tout-savoir-sur-la-laine-recyclee/
- Global Recycle Standard (GRS). (2024). Standards and certifications for sustainable production. Retrieved from https://globalrecyclestandard.org
- Manteco. (nd). 5 reasons why wool is the circular fiber par excellence. Retrieved from https://manteco.com/5-reasons-why-wool-is-the-circular-fiber-par-excellence/
- Bianco, I., Gerboni, R., Picerno, G., & Blengini, GA (2022). Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of MWool ® Recycled Wool Fibers. Resources, 11(5), 41. https://doi.org/10.3390/resources11050041
2 comments
Superbe article, tout comme le pull d’ailleurs. Fan de cette matière ancestrale depuis toujours, je m’interrogeais toutefois quant au conditions de vie des moutons. Vos produits en laine rencontrent mes attentes en transition vers un réel développement durable.
A quand les chaussettes en laine recyclée?
Bravo…. Quel chemin parcouru… Continuons !!